Adour Alain Ducasse
2 E. 55th St., at Fifth Ave.; 212-710-2277
Sure, we’ve heard the whisperings on the street. That perennial favorite of portly chefs and dyspeptic restaurant critics everywhere, the pork dish, has finally jumped the shark in this pig-addled town. Well, guess again. “Glazed Berkshire Pork Tournedos” is the name of our favorite entrée at Adour, Alain Ducasse’s swanky new restaurant at the St. Regis Hotel. This little hymn to the joys of porkiness is composed of pinkish, perfectly cooked loin; a little postage stamp of braised, candied pork belly; and a wheel of loose, freshly made boudin noir. In grand Ducasse fashion, each ingredient is arranged with painterly precision on the plate, and poured with a rich pork jus delicately infused with juniper. It’s a dish designed for the most discerning pork fiend, so devour it with care. And when your neighbor asks plaintively for a little taste, tell him to get lost.