The Cut

7/ 8/08

Run Through

7/ 8/08

6:30 PM

Loveliness on Video: Couture Shows by Valentino, Lacroix, and More

Couture looks from left, Givenchy, Christian Lacroix, and Valentino.Photo: Imaxtree

We know you're still daydreaming about that luscious Parisian couture that hit the runways last week. To satiate your idle mind and help you relive one of the best weeks on the fashion calendar, we've uploaded videos of several couture shows, which include commentary from the designers. These clothes are special and must be seen in action, so if you know what's good for you, you'll watch all of them. Twice.

Anne Valérie Hash
Christian Lacroix
Givenchy
Jean Paul Gaultier
Valentino [NYM Video]

More: Run Through »anne valerie hash, christian lacroix, couture collections fall 08, givenchy, jean paul gaultier, valentino

Run Through

7/ 8/08

5:45 PM

Karl Lagerfeld to Design Homes on Dubai’s Fashion Island

What can't he do?Photo: Getty Images

Wouldn't it be amazing if there was a paradise island where fashionistas could gather and exude fabulousness together? Where famous designers could throw amazing parties and put on fashion shows exclusively for the island's residents, who live in couture villas with private beaches just steps from the best boutiques in the world? It sounds too good to be true, but it's not: Isla Moda is that fashion paradise. It's under construction in Dubai, natch, and Karl Lagerfeld is the first fashion designer to sign on to design a few "limited edition" homes there. He says in a press release:

"Dubai is a fashion bud on the verge of blossoming into the next fashion hub of the world … Isla Moda has tremendous potential to be the style icon of the future and I intend on driving the island to high style stardom," he added.

That "tremendous potential" includes a "style concierge" available to residents of Isla Moda for clothes, fragrances, and makeovers (there's also a design one to help you with your home-furnishing and decorating needs). If you can't afford one of Lagerfeld's houses, Isla Moda will also include a hotel with 250 rooms and serviced apartments. And here we thought retiring in California sounded like a nice idea.

Dubai Infinity Holdings is developing the project in line with its "mandate to fulfill unmet market needs." We don't know about you, but we sure can't think of an unmet market need that needed more fulfilling.

Dubai Infinity Holdings bring "Haute Homes" to Dubai through signing legendary fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld to Isla Moda [Zawya via Fashionista]

More: Run Through »dubai, isla moda, karl lagerfeld

Beauty Marks

7/ 8/08

5:00 PM

Estée Lauder Promotes Sensuous Fragrance on Wall Street

The faces of Sensuous.Photo: Harper's Bazaar

FRAGRANCE
• Three of the four faces of Estée Lauder's Sensuous fragrance opened the stock market this morning. Carolyn Murphy, Hilary Rhoda, and Elizabeth Hurley were there sans Gwyneth Paltrow. And for a moment Wall Street didn't smell like money. [Fashion Week Daily]

• Pamela Roberts, the creative director behind L'Artisan Parfumeur: "High profile celebrity endorsements are contrary to our policy. It's the scent that lingers with you every day that matters to us, rather than saying, 'if you wear this perfume, you'll look or smell like this individual.'" Amen. [The Guardian]

MAKEUP
• Rock & Republic is launching a 116-piece makeup collection this fall. The packaging is silver with black patent leather, and prices range from $18 (for faux-eyelashes) to $225 (for Swarovski-encrusted bronzer). [WWD]

Learn what ice cubes can do for your hair. »

More: Beauty Marks »carolyn murphy, elizabeth hurley, estee lauder, fragrance, guerlain, gwyneth paltrow, hair, hilary rhoda, liv tyler, makeup, rock & republic, sensuous, skin

Run Through

7/ 8/08

4:35 PM

Robin Givhan Reviews Anna Wintour’s Twenty Years at ‘Vogue’

Robin Givhan, Anna WintourPhoto: Getty Images

Everyone has his own opinion of Vogue and its controversial queen bee, Anna Wintour. However, that opinion becomes more interesting when it’s from Pulitzer Prize–winning fashion writer and former Vogue staffer Robin Givhan. In the Washington Post article, Givhan shares her thoughts on the famous (or infamous, depending on whom you talk to) EIC who in just a couple weeks will have reigned at the glossy for twenty years. A few choice observations below:

Wintour’s success stems from a balance of stereotypical masculine strength and feminine beauty.

The magazine's circulation is 1.2 million, a Vogue spokesman said, essentially what it was when Wintour took over two decades ago. She came to represent a new archetype for a fashion editor: a master of the universe who wears her power as comfortably and impeccably as Chanel couture. It's an intimidating combination because it implies that she is a woman who is accomplished in the so-called masculine art of war and still knows how to use all the stereotypically feminine wiles. She is a double threat.

More: Run Through »anna wintour, pulitzer, robin givhan, vogue, washington post

First Looks

7/ 8/08

4:00 PM

Naomi Campbell, Naked and Winking

Not only is Naomi gracing one of four covers of the iconic, all-black Italian Vogue, but she’s also hitting the cover of August’s i-D as well. This time she’s posing with Yves Saint Laurent's Stefano Pilati, only she isn’t wearing any of the label’s designs. She isn’t wearing anything at all actually. Given that she’s the star of his fall campaigns, this seems a touch confusing. But perhaps naked, winking Naomi is convincing enough to prompt people to shell out a few grand on pants. And as she is in the ads, this blurs the line a bit between editorial and advertising. But hey, she looks good, right? —Kendall Herbst

Naomi for i-D [Models.com]

More: First Looks »i-d, naomi campbell, stefano pilati, yves saint laurent

Dress Code

7/ 8/08

3:15 PM

Everyone Wants to Dress Like the ‘Gossip Girl’ Cast

Print this out and get thee to Barneys — all the cool kids are doing it.Photo: Courtesy of CW

Hey, fashion designers! Did you know that you could boost sales by slipping your goods onto the ladies of Gossip Girl? We know, call us Captain Obvious, but the Times "Styles" section points out this groundbreaking trend. Apparently, trend forecasters and retailers say the show is "one of the biggest influences on how young women spend." This would be where we'd say "duh," but that's only because we actually watch the show and saw Serena in a Valentino gown and the many contests for Botkier bags.

Anyway, we digress. Girls find the characters' style so amazing they often bring pictures of Blair & Co. to stores and ask for the exact looks. Nanette Lepore says "within days after one of our dresses appears [on the show], the store gets calls." And Tory Burch says having items on the show "translates to sales" (though it seems these days just being Tory Burch translates to sales).

This is going to have a big impact on fall dressing. »

More: Dress Code »amy astley, gossip girl, house of holland, marc by marc jacobs, nanette lepore, ruffian, teen vogue, television, tory burch, valentino

Model Tracker

7/ 8/08

2:30 PM

Is Kate Moss Out at Rimmel?

We sense an impending catfight.Photo: WireImage

Ever since April, the suits at Coty, Inc. have fought rumors that Kate Moss would be replaced as the face of Rimmel London. After all, she's iconic to the brand, posing for them with every new hair, lipstick, and mascara product since 2001. And thus far, they've held true to their claim. But as with every rumor, there was some truth to it; it seems Rimmel could be starting the breakup process, not by severing the ties completely, but by throwing new faces in the mix. Today WWD reported that Coty just signed singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor and model Lily Cole to represent the brand. (Lily was also rumored to be modeling for Agent Provocateur, which she walked for in May, coincidentally, another Kate-faced company.) And though Rimmel hasn't ended Kate's contract, three's a bit of a crowd, even if you're Kate Moss. —Sharon Clott

Lily Cole to Rimmel [Fashionista]
Coty Inks a Pair of New Faces for Rimmel [WWD]

More: Model Tracker »agent provocateur, kate moss, lily cole, rimmel

Run Through

7/ 8/08

1:50 PM

‘Vogue’ Shape-Issue Numbers Were Bad, But Gwyneth’s Were Worse

The woes for Vogue's 2008 shape issue continue this week. You know, the one with the controversial cover shot by Annie Leibovitz of LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen that evokes King Kong? Right, who could forget. Condé Nast announced yesterday it was the worst-selling April issue since 2001, moving just 350,000 copies off newsstands. By this time last year the issue had sold 452,207. What's more, since we all love to read about diets and fantasize about getting "bikini ready," the shape issue usually does above-average sales.

However, that issue shouldn't feel too bad about itself since it's not the worst seller of the year. That honor belongs to the May issue with Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover. That one sold just 310,000 copies on newsstands.

We can't help but note that this is not Anna Wintour's week (and it's only Tuesday!). First her beloved Roger Federer loses Wimbledon, and now her mag's cringe-y sales numbers are splashed all over the blogs like a celebrity who just gave birth. Happy hour's on us, lady.

'Vogue' King Kong Cover Thuds on Newsstand [Mixed Media/Portfolio]

More: Run Through »anna wintour, annie leibovitz, gisele bundchen, gwyneth paltrow, lebron james, vogue

Run Through

7/ 8/08

1:00 PM

Roberto Cavalli Decides Not to Sell, and You Can Probably Guess Why

Photo: Getty Images

Remember how Roberto Cavalli put his company up for sale — and yet it seemed like he wasn't ready to completely let go because he also said he would be a part of the glitzy zebra-striped package, staying on as captain of the Cavalli ship when the new owners took over? Yeah, well, he's decided not to sell after all. He cites the crappy economy as the reason; these days he just won't be able to get the bajillion clams he wants for his empire. WWD reports Cavalli told Italian financial daily Il Sole 24 he wouldn't revisit a possible sale before 2009:

“The timing is not ripe yet for such a step. What’s more, as I have already said a thousand times, we don’t need [to sell].”
…“A year ago, [the banks] spoke to me about certain numbers, which today have vanished with the stock market crisis,” Cavalli told Il Sole. “I’m not selling for 800-900 million [euros].”

Merrill Lynch had valued the company at 1.4 billion euros (about $2.19 billion). Quite a few private-equity funds were set to make pretty serious bids on the company next week — alas, it seems the captain is not yet ready to abandon his helm. We suggest all formerly interested bidders take a long lunch and go shopping in their new spare time.

Roberto Cavalli Backs Off Selling Company [WWD]

More: Run Through »economy, roberto cavalli

Cult of Personality

7/ 8/08

11:55 AM

Mario Testino on ‘Vogue,’ Agyness Deyn, Tom Ford, and More

Mario TestinoPhoto: Getty Images

When you're as big as Mario Testino, you don't have to worry about getting gigs. After all, the Peruvian photographer shoots for almost every issue of American Vogue and lensed ad campaigns for Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Burberry, and many more. So in the diary he wrote chronicling his jet-setting life from the end of May to mid-June for the Independent, he's not afraid to suggest Vogue is a bit bland and Toni Garrn's Calvin Klein campaign was less than stellar. He also says the best models come out of London and explains why Agyness Deyn was left out of the fall Burberry campaign. Some highlights:

He has a method to ensure his work for American Vogue is mass market.

Most of my work is for American Vogue. I shoot for it almost every issue. This is a magazine that sells 1.2m copies and is probably read by 3m. Its reach is so wide you have to be quite easily understood. Whereas British Vogue's aesthetics are different. You can't give them work that's too bland. It's got to have a certain humour; a certain fun. And my photography is always about finding the common ground. Me, I'm a democrat. I like to believe that of the 10 people at a shoot, from the manicurist to the hairdresser to the make-up artist to the model … if everybody likes something I get the idea that by the time the photos come out everybody will like it. If only three people like it then by the time it gets to the press, the same percentage will like it: a very small number.

Agyness Deyn wasn't new enough for Burberry. »

More: Cult of Personality »agyness deyn, british vogue, claudia schiffer, mario testino, models, photographer, toni garnn, vogue

Loose Threads

7/ 8/08

10:40 AM

Matthew Williamson Comes to NYC; Kate Moss and Jamie Hince on the Outs?

A look from Matthew Williamson's fall '08 collection.Photo: imaxtree

• Matthew Williamson will open its first U.S. store in New York in early 2009 in — wait for it — the meatpacking district! Shocker. [British Vogue]

• Steve & Barry's University Sportswear is thisclose to closing 100 of its 270 of stores. [WWD]

• Kate Moss might be breaking up with Jamie Hince. He was spotted moving his stuff out of her house. So much for all that marriage hoopla. [Mirror]

• Wendy Kahn is the new chief executive officer of Valentino USA and V.F.G. USA and Canada. She replaces Graziano de Boni who's jumped to Prada's ship. [WWD]

• Eva Mendes on the couture collections: "Dior is the only show worth going to, I'm very loyal." Now that is a bold statement indeed. [WWD]

Get a sneak peek at Petra Nemcova's new campaign. »

More: Loose Threads »audrey tautou, bankruptcy, blake lively, christian dior, coco chanel, couture, eva mendes, hamptons, hats, jamie hince, kate moss, magazine covers, matthew williamson, meatpacking district, models, movies, petra nemcova, photo retouching, polo ralph lauren, rampage, relationships, seventeen, stephen jones, steve and barry's, store opening, valentino

Run Through

7/ 8/08

9:40 AM

Possible Opening Days Announced for Topshop

Photo: FashionBinge.blogspot.com

Brace yourselves, we've got big news to share: Topshop set an opening date, or an opening week, rather. The two-story sign on Broadway boasts fall 2008, but the U.S. publicist confirmed it will be around October 16, 17, or 18. So pull out your calendars and circle the three possible days (it's a Thursday-Friday-Saturday span). Do it right now! We see the line starting around, oh, October.—Sharon Clott

Topshop New York: Opening Dates Narrowed Down [Fashion Binge]

More: Run Through »store opening, topshop

Fashion Calendar

7/ 8/08

9:00 AM

Events and Sales: Meet Gwyneth Paltrow and Elizabeth Hurley at Bloomingdale's!

EVENTS
• The four ladies of Estée Lauder's Sensuous fragrance are stopping by Bloomingdale's tonight to sign newly purchased bottles of the perfume. Meet Elizabeth Hurley, Gwyneth Paltrow, Carolyn Murphy, and Hilary Rhoda while you sniff the scent at the flagship store. That is quite a lineup for a department store. Bloomingdale's, 1000 Third Ave., at 59th St., main fl. (212-705-2000); 6–9.

• Stock up on beautiful cocktail dresses at the Giambattista Valli trunk show. Through 7/9. Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Ave., at 57th St. (212-924-4314); 10–8.

SALES
STARTING TODAY
• Gilt.com is an invite-only sample-sale Website. Today, they launch the Hickey men's sale, where you can get men's clothes for over 50 percent off (a khaki pant was $288, now just $101). The women's online sample sales this week include Vera Wang, Felix Rey handbags, and Malo (a sateen skirt was $325 but is now $97). Not a member? No worries! Click here for your nymag.com invite.

Get 70 percent off Charlotte Ronson. »

More: Fashion Calendar »sales, shopping

7/ 7/08

Model Tracker

7/ 7/08

6:30 PM

An ‘ANTM’ Winner Scores a Gig!

Smile, Dani!Photo: Courtesy Saks Fifth Avenue

Today we got an e-mail from Saks Fifth Avenue alerting us that the new collection of Tory Burch is available for purchase. We'll admit we weren't immediately bowled over — we can't bear to see another version of those gold-toe flats (we kid, she did win the CFDA award for those accessories after all). But it turns out Tory does in fact have something new up her sleeve. And it comes in the form of 22-year-old Danielle "Dani" Evans, winner of America's Next Top Model, Cycle 6. Remember her? From way back when in 2005? Of course you do! She's the one they totally redid from top to bottom — new teeth, new accent, new personality. Well, now she resurfaces for the first time in a while. But to be honest, Dani looks a tad uncomfortable. And then it hit us — she didn't use one of Tyra's patented smiles! Hello, this totally called for a catalog smile. It would have gone perfectly with that cardigan! In any case, congrats on the gig, Dani. —Sharon Clott

More: Model Tracker »america's next top model, danielle evans, saks fifth avenue, tory burch, tyra banks

Run Through

7/ 7/08

6:00 PM

Chinese Designer Qui Hao Wins the Woolmark Prize

Qui Hao at the Singapore Fashion Festival on March 30, 2008.Photo: Tim Chong/Reuters

On Thursday, Chinese designer Qui Hao beat out nine other finalists to win the anticipated Woolmark Prize. Though our hopes rested on American Tom Scott, Hao translated some pretty innovative ideas into knitwear, including "a white tube dress encircled with knitted orbs of Merino wool, inspired by a series of cave photos by Wang Gang," WWD reported. With his prizes (100,000 euros, and his designs will be stocked at Colette) Hao plans to relocate from Shanghai to Paris. And he's planning a line of masks that will appear in Chinese Vogue's December issue. Lets hope the City of Light continues to be a good-luck charm for the rising star. —Kendall Herbst

Edited by Amy Odell

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