With its debut show, in 2000,
Imitation of Christ established itself as the ne plus
ultra of hip. Designers Tara Subkoff and Matt Damhave had
all the right friends (Chloë Sevigny was creative director)
and a credibly subversive message: They would never make new
clothes, just reconstruct what was already around. Now Imitation
will show in Bryant Park. But that doesn’t mean the fashion
Establishment has embraced it. Over the years, the line has
managed to alienate the very people—namely, fashion editors—who
were once intrigued by it. — Jacob Bernstein
September 2000: The first show, held
in an East Village funeral parlor, sends up the
“mass reproduction of thrift-store
clothing.” (A vintage YSL T-shirt is graffitied
bring me the head of tom ford. It’s extremely
limited seating, but the lucky few, like Vogue’s
Grace Coddington, are all raves.
September 2001: Models are seated in the front row,
while editors are forced to walk the runway. The New
York Times calls it a “hoot,” but some
guests pine
for their seating assignments.
February 2002: A mock auction (with editors
as bidders) at Sotheby’s. The talk of the show,
per WWD: Are Damhave and Subkoff “(A) shutting
down their fashion line altogether, (B) busting up
their partnership or (C) actually going to make
something less expensive, that the retailers who
support them can sell easily”? Answer: B.
September 2002: In an ode to Helmut Newton, half-naked models wield vacuums (noisily) in a furniture showroom.
September 2003: Channeling old-world Hollywood,
Subkoff sends out models against a backdrop of
Dietrich films. Plus a tap dancer who “went on
for, like, 25 minutes,” recalls one attendee.
“I wanted to rip off her tap shoes.”
September 8, 2004:
A midtown show will be easier on editors (no more
slogs to out-of-the-way runways), but also signals the
final loss of downtown cred.
September 2000: The first show, held
in an East Village funeral parlor, sends up the
“mass reproduction of thrift-store
clothing.” (A vintage YSL T-shirt is graffitied
bring me the head of tom ford. It’s extremely
limited seating, but the lucky few, like Vogue’s
Grace Coddington, are all raves.
February 2002: A mock auction (with editors
as bidders) at Sotheby’s. The talk of the show,
per WWD: Are Damhave and Subkoff “(A) shutting
down their fashion line altogether, (B) busting up
their partnership or (C) actually going to make
something less expensive, that the retailers who
support them can sell easily”? Answer: B.
September 2002: In an ode to Helmut Newton, half-naked models wield vacuums (noisily) in a furniture showroom.