Perry Ellis
The Label
Founded in 1980 as an eponymous menswear line, Perry Ellis preceded Ralph Lauren with its casual, elegant sportswear designed specifically for the affluent American male. The collection quickly grew to include women’s wear, and by the mid-'80s, the Perry Ellis brand was synonymous with sophisticated, preppy style. When Marc Jacobs took the reins of the women's division after Ellis' death in 1986, tightly-knit polo shirts and cable knit cashmere sweater dresses gave way to grunge. In a moment still remembered in fashion circles, the fashion wunderkind sent combat boots and dirty plaid down Perry Ellis' runway, to very mixed results. Jacobs was fired in 1992, and the brand resumed its steadier, albeit more traditional, course. Today, under the direction of John Crocco, the brand still aims to embody the quintessential American look, but faces a slew of competitors like Tommy Hilfiger, Le Tigre, Lacoste and Mr. Lauren himself.
The Look
Uniforms for uptown girls and Connecticut guys.
The Designer
Virginia native Perry Ellis founded his company in 1978, after beginning his fashion career designing for department stores. A menswear line launched in 1980, and shortly after, Ellis was nominated as president of the CFDA, where his focus shifted from his own brand to the concerns of the entire American fashion community. When Ellis died in 1986, at the age of 46, he had already inspired a new generation of fashion luminaries, including Isaac Mizrahi (who trained with Ellis from 1982 to 1984) and of course Marc Jacobs, whose own mark on American sportswear is now seen as both ingenious and indelible. In 2003, Jerry Kaye became creative director of Perry Ellis. Kaye graduated in 1985 from Parsons School of Design and has worked at such labels as Alexander Julian, where he was design director. In 2005, Kaye had the honor of being the only menswear designer inducted into the CFDA. The brand is now designed by John Crocco.
