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You're probably going to walk by it the first time. Because from all you've already heard, this couldn't be the place-it looks like one more brick-walled Village joint with first-come-first-served seating (reservations are available for parties of five or more) and a brunch menu. But there's that quixotically intriguing all-over-the-place menu. And naturally, you're soon in danger of ordering nothing and spending the evening tearing into the insidiously addictive breads and a bottle of wine. Put the butter knife down! You don't want to miss the yummy steak tartare, perfectly smoked sable, a butcher's plate to shame most Italian antipasti, a super rack of lamb splashed with tomato sauce, a funkily stringy barbecued-pork sandwich and coleslaw, and a BLT that really is a meal. And can you pass up a place that can still make a root-beer float? If you can, keep walking, and let someone who truly understands fine dining sit down. — Hal Rubenstein

Sat.–Sun., 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

Extra
Reservations are only accepted for parties of five or more.

Note
Only sandwiches served during the daytime, and no sandwiches served during evening hours.

Steak tartare, $15; butcher's platter royale, $58; serrano ham on baguette, $14.50; BLT, $12.50; Blue Ribbon fried chicken, $25; root beer float, $8.50

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Best of New York Awards

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