Profile

The working butcher shop in the front still comes off as a little too Ragtime—as if you should be doing your marketing carrying a wicker hamper. But you won't hear the rustle of petticoats wending round the dining tables in the back. Les Halles is for unapologetic meat eaters. And what a spectrum of protein it is: boudin noir, ginger-marinated hanger steak salad, Moroccan lamb sausage, even pig's feet. And it's one of the few places a TV over the bar wouldn't feel out of place. Provided it's always tuned to soccer. — Hal Rubenstein

Sat.—Sun., 11:30 a.m.—4 p.m.

Choucroute garni, $21.50