John Bartlett
The Label
In the mid-nineties, Bartlett brought a sly erotic sense to that era’s minimalist, narrow-cut vibe (tailored trousers that laced up the front like a football player’s pants, judicious use of leather). His women’s line, added in 1997, had a similar approach: menswear tailoring, very luxurious Italian fabrics, and a distinct awareness of other American designers like Halston and Bill Blass in the use of jersey for clinging dresses and crisply cut jackets—but always with an overt sexiness by way of leather trim, deep necklines, and low-slung waistbands. In recent years, post-relaunch, he’s loosened the silhouette to accommodate the times (see below).
The Look
Bartlett does preppy (sweaters tucked into flat-front pants, loafers with no socks) with a twist (pink-and-green ties, lime-colored pinstripes).
The Designer
With his thick brush of hair, round glasses, and toothy grin, Cincinnati-born Bartlett looks like he could be his own model. A Harvard sociology major who studied at the London School of Economics, Bartlett came out before he went to college, and his clothes often tease the uptight norms of menswear. Although the early part of his career was hectic and his press mostly positive, he hit a troubled patch around 2000, when his backers dropped out and his collections were not as well received. He closed his business in 2002 and spent a year traveling in Asia and studying Buddhism. After returning to New York, he began working his way back into the fashion business, starting with a small menswear line (shown at the Harvard Club). In 2005, he was named creative director at Ghurka, the upscale American accessories line and given the task of establishing that venerable brand’s identity in the lucrative, competitive handbag market.
