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The walls of the restaurant are painted in vivid shades of white and Mediterranean blue, a Greek motif further highlighted by the chandeliers, which are playful replicas of the kind of spiky gold constellations you see hanging from the ceilings of diners along the highways of suburban Long Island. As it turns out, the chef-owner, Michael Psilakis, actually lives out on suburban Long Island, where his last venture was an Italian restaurant. Psilakis is Greek, however, and at Onera, he takes classic old dishes like meze and moussaka and roast lamb and turns them inside out, in a variety of inventive, generally pleasing ways. — Adam Platt

 Seven courses, $75

Note
Onera's mostly Greek wine list is an education, but if you're stumped, order any of the delicious whites from the island of Santorini.

Veal or lamb crudo, $12-$25; sweetbreads, $11; braised veal tongue, $12; sheep's-milk dumplings, $17; lamb, $27; chocolate and sesame, $8

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (2/7/05)

Featured In

• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Onera

• Fava Purée With Grilled Baguette (2005)
• Salad of Warm Grilled Octopus (2005)