Profile

Bombay Talkie's presence amid a nondescript cluster of shops on Ninth Avenue in Chelsea is a testament to the depth and quality of the dining scene in the city today. The walls are painted with murals of colorful Mumbai movie stars. An LCD monitor glows over the sleek little bar downstairs, so you can contemplate an endless loop of Bollywood movies as you sip cocktails tinged with pomegranate juice. The food is straightforward Indian (as opposed to wacky Indian fusion), with big, curling dosas from the south, a reasonably fiery pork vindaloo from Goa, and a whole amalgam of chats, naans, and kathi rolls designed to evoke the vibrant universe of Indian street food. To this end, there is a “street bites” section on the menu, a “curbside” section, and one called “by the roadside.” You can take the edge off these moderately fiery dishes with several temperate desserts, like carrot halwa, and an excellent selection of ice creams and gelati. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Potato dosa, $9; pork vindaloo, $16; carrot halwa, $7