Profile

Pompeian columns flank the entrance of this stately Wall Street steakhouse, open since 1837 (no typo!) on a shadowy, wind-blown corner. This historic meatery is the birthplace of the Delmonico’s steak, a juicy cut of rib eye that’s perfectly charred and bloody good, served topped with a single, golden onion ring that could double as an edible bangle. Lobster Newburg, also created here, blankets lumps of the succulent crustacean in an unctuous brandy-cream sauce, top-sprinkled with caviar and accompanied by a crisp triangle of fried bread. It’s easy to imagine J.P. Morgan and his cronies kicking back in the spacious dining room: Lofty, gilded ceilings crown mahogany-paneled walls hung with oil paintings of tuxedo-clad gents swilling martinis. Frosted windows are etched with a grand, cursive “D,” and the richly patterned carpets are so thick that waiters appear soundlessly at tableside. Baked Alaska, another Delmonico’s original, looks chilly but tastes lush: Snowy tufts of meringue, singed a toasty brown, hide banana ice cream and a gooey, apricot core. During the week, this bankers’ den is expense-account central. Judging by the robust spending (and Delmonico’s just-as-robust prices), the economy may not be so bad after all. — AnneLise Sorensen

This venerable Wall Street steakhouse has four different rooms with capacities ranging from 14 to 200 guests. Beyond beef, expect traditional fare like lobster Newburg and baked Alaska. Several prix fixe options are available. No outside catering except kosher.

Delmonico’s steak, $41; lobster Newburg, $47