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The excellent hummus, homemade pita, plus a complementary table full of condiments at this terrific Middle Eastern-Israeli restaurant is a meal in itself. But save yourself for some of the dozen or so other salads and specialties like malawach, the warm, buttery, multilayered fried flatbread; and shakshuksa, poached eggs in a heavenly tomato stew. Weekends the kitchen puts out first-rate renditions of Shabbat dishes like cholent and jachnun.

Spicy red-pepper-and-tomato Moroccan salad ($4); baba ghannouj ($4.50); malawach ($6); jachnun,the Saturday special of 24-hour-baked cylinders of dough ($7).

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Brunch (2002)