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It's so small Edith Piaf would have felt cramped, but Margot's vest-pocket size is the source of its charms. How does so much food come out of a kitchen as small as the one in your first apartment? How does most of it, like pork roti and Swiss-chard tarte, taste so freshly cooked? Think of Margot as a night in the Marais for less than the cost of a taxi to JFK's Air France terminal.  — Hal Rubenstein

Roasted duck, $16.50; coq au vin, $15.50