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The famous soup dumplings get all the attention at this Chinatown eatery, but the specialties of the house are the real treats. Start with those briny balls of pork if you must, but resolve to roll up your sleeves and dig your hands into the messy yet delectable unshelled jumbo prawns in Szechuan sauce. If you’re timid about getting your fingers dirty, try the lip-smacking “Special Duck” on a platter of brown sauce and vegetables, or the Shanghai noodle soup instead. The broad menu includes Chinese standards, exotic specialties and particularly good seafood. — Sandra Nygaard

Pork steamed buns, $4.25; Shanghai shrimp, $7.95; tofu Szechuan-style, $7.95; jumbo prawns in Szechuan peppery sauce, $19.95; braised pork shoulder, $12.95; scallops with green vegetables, $12.95