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Even more impressive than Keith McNally’s finger-snapping knack for creating fun, atmospheric places that grow old gracefully is his co-chefs Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson’s ability to turn out such consistently satisfying, affordable grub. A deeply flavorful steak frites, an iron skillet of sizzling garlic shrimp, and an estimable penne arrabiata are better than they have any right to be, considering the hipster-haunted scene. The sticky toffee pudding passes muster with finicky Englishmen, and where else can you get a Welsh rarebit this good—or for that matter, a Welsh rarebit, period? If you can park yourself there on a late afternoon, you and whomever you’re playing hooky with will practically have the whole white-tiled, sun-filled place to yourselves. — Adam Platt

Sat.—Sun., 10 a.m.—5 p.m. On weekend mornings, Schiller's serves fruity Pimm's Cups to its bleary-eyed clientele, plus fresh-made dollar doughnuts and a thick hazelnut waffle doused in bourbon-flavored maple syrup.

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (10/20/03)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant (2005)
• Best Sticky Toffee Pudding (2004)
• Best Late-Night Dining (2004)

Recipes at Schiller's Liquor Bar

• Harlem Cocktail (2003)