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When this spot quietly slipped into the neighborhood in August 2002, chef Sarah Jenkins made a splash with unique specialties like spaghetti cooked in red wine. Now the result is still rustically elegant, if not quite as adventurous. Baby artichokes are fried until crisp, nearly dissolving on the tongue and the rosemary-infused Cornish hen is juicy and comforting. Yet some dishes feel unfinished, like asparagus ravioli with too-subtle truffle butter, and a one-dimensional grilled salmon, its over-sweet skin the only flavor note despite the presence of yellow peppers and roasted almonds. One thing that hasn't changed is the warm, familiar feel of the room, with its brick and faux Venetian-plaster walls, wood bar and floors, white tablecloths, and flickering candlelight. The faces filling it haven't changed either. Everyone seems to know each other, judging from the warm salutations and table hopping. And just like good neighbors, these repeat customers seem to be rolling right along with the changes, giving the new kid on the block the benefit of the doubt. — Kathleen Squires

Carciofi alla giudea, $10-$12; galleto al forno, $20

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