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They’ve got the brasserie atmosphere down at Belleville. With antiqued mirrors and pressed tin walls painted French vanilla, it’s authentic, Parisian retro-chic. Early in the evening families fill the space, giving way as the night rolls on to the Slope’s hipster francophilia. As for the menu, it’s a lighter take on traditional bistro favorites—they’ve done their best to skim the cream and butter. The steak tartare is served with or without raw egg; the pork tenderloin comes with porcini mushrooms and apricots instead of potatoes; and the spicy fish soup with saffron rouille crouton is a tangy treat made without any dairy. A word of caution to folks with high blood pressure: while they try to keep the fat to a minimum, there’s more salt in this meal than everything you’ve had to eat all week. — Lisa Selin Davis

Steak tartare,$16.50; pork tenderloin, $22; duck liver pate, $9.50; French onion soup, $7.50