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Much of Bivio’s crowd is younger than the Barocco set, but they buzz, laugh easily, and acknowledge those around them just enough to allow the energy to bounce from table to table. Don’t worry, nothing spills. The food doesn’t stay that long on the table. Bivio’s kitchen, like Barocco’s, has mastered the simple to read, eat, and afford Italian menu, so it’s easy to put together an antipasto where marinated artichokes share their brine with a hunk of robiola and slices of a pungent duck prosciutto, and smokily braised fennel can hook up with sweet cipollini onion, the faint heat of bresaola, and the oddly persuasive perfume of Parmigiano. The menu begins to wind down with the entrées, though the herb-crusted rack of lamb and the make-a-big-mess zuppa di pesce are the best deals. — Hal Rubenstein

Brunch, $20.

Rack of lamb, $28.

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Hal Rubenstein's Full Review (3/8/04)