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Perpetually packed with an East Village crowd, this off-the-radar sushi joint serves one of the largest daily specials menus in town. While modestly outfitted with feng-shui bare essentials, Kanoyama is far from your average spot. Somewhat of a well-guarded secret, the space finds those in the know lining up outside the door for uniquely seasonal sushi gems. Fresh off the plane from Tokyo, top-notch black snapper, melt-in-your-mouth butterfish, and buttery arctic char make rare but unforgettable appearances. Even the red-miso soup, topped off with fresh crabmeat, manages to make a winning statement. Perhaps Tomoe loyalists should reconsider their allegiances and head east for a far superior selection of all things raw. This Japanese haunt even has a way with dessert, dazzling with luscious tofu pudding laced with an earthy red-bean sauce. — Danyelle Freeman

Omakase Dinners: sushi, $31; sashimi, $36

History
Veterans from the restaurant’s previous incarnation, Iso, bought the place from the much-admired chef, Shoji Iso, and made it their own.

Avocado king crab roll, $12; hamachi carpaccio $12; arctic char, $4; king salmon, $5