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Nashville
Hanging out with the city's storytelling honky-tonkers
From the April 22, 2002 Issue of New York
For real Nashville flavor, forget Opryland and Shania. Instead, check
out the other Nashville -- the hangouts of the thinky songwriters
who lie somewhere between folk and alt country. Daylight attractions
are minimal, so stay out late at the Station Inn, where Gillian Welch
often plays, or the local favorite for up-and-comers, Twelfth and
Porter, where Lucinda Williams was once spotted making out with someone
in the parking lot. Slow Bar, a honky-tonk in East Nashville with
the best jukebox in town, is where Wilco's Jeff Tweedy broods when
he's visiting. Sleep in at Four Walls, a bed-and-breakfast that eschews
southern kitsch in favor of understated good taste, then have a cappuccino
at nearby Bongo Java -- wait around to see Steve Earle and half of
WFUV's lineup come in to do the same. Nurse your hangover with the
spicy fried pickles at the burger joint Rotier's; make time later
for the pistachio-crusted salmon at upscale Zola.
-- SUSAN DOMINUS
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Details
Delta has a daily nonstop flight from La Guardia (800-221-1212);
Four Walls Bed & Breakfast (rooms start at $145, 615-292-7162);
Station Inn (615-255-3307); Twelfth and Porter (615-254-7236);
Slow Bar (615-262-4701); Bongo Java (615-385-5282); Rotier's
(615-327-9892); Zola (615-320-7778).
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