• 1. Where to Stay
• 2. Where to Eat
• 3. What to Do
• 4. Insider’s Tip
• 5. An Oddball Day

(Photo: Courtesy of Udurau)

One of the largest fishing fleets in the Western Caribbean sails in and out of the village of French Harbour, and the lobster in butter and garlic at Romeo's (504-455-5854) is fresh off those boats. It's one of the handful of restaurants on the island open on Sundays, so it's big with the local after-church crowd. Request a seat on the back deck to get a look at the fleet.

Gio’s (504-455-5214 or 504-455-5536), also in French Harbour, rivals Romeo’s for best seafood restaurant, thanks to the fresh king crab and a “big fish” platter loaded with calamari, shrimp, lobster, and perfectly grilled vegetables. If you’re sick of seafood, try the nicely grilled Argentine-beef filet mignon. Choose a table indoors to avoid the bugs and prepare to relax—the kitchen operates on “island time."

The recently opened Udurau at the Turquoise Bay Dive & Beach Resort has elevated Roatan's level of dining with an eclectic wine list and a wait staff trained in European service. Fish is still the main draw. Order the perfectly seasoned grouper in shrimp sauce.

For island-style fare, head to B.J.’s Backyard (no phone) in the tiny fishing village of Oak Ridge. The open-air, overwater fish shack serves fresh shrimp and bread pudding soaked in rum sauce, mostly to fishermen docked nearby. When sated, rent a dory from B.J.'s docks and row through the neighboring Jonesville mangrove canals. You can row as far as Caribe Point, about an hour round trip.

Published on Mar 19, 2008 as a web exclusive.