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Poetry Below 14th Street

From Walt Whitman to the Beat generation to modern-day slam poets, New York has inspired writers to immortalize in verse its streets, its crowds, its taxis and drunks and skyscrapers. But these poets have given the city more than their stanzas—Manhattan below 14th Street is chock-full of their homes and hangouts, not to mention the hallowed spaces where today’s poets continue to read works.

BY MATT GROSS

     
   
   
    Any poetry tour of Manhattan should begin, however, in Brooklyn, where Whitman used to catch the boat that inspired his classic poem “Crossing Brooklyn Ferry.” Frolic on, crested and scallop-edg’d waves! you may say to yourself as the New York Water Taxi pulls out into the East River from Fulton Street in DUMBO. Look up and you’ll see the Brooklyn Bridge “vaulting the sea” (as Hart Crane put it in his “To Brooklyn Bridge”) and six minutes later you’ll arrive at Pier 11, near the relatively unpoetic South Street Seaport.

• New York Water Taxi, 212-742-1969; nywatertaxi.com; $5

   
     
   
     
    Thankfully, the 1 and 9 trains aren’t far away—take them uptown to Christopher Street (once aboard, look up and you may even catch a little of the MTA’s “Poetry in Motion” to read along the way). From there, it’s a short walk to the Cornelia Street Café, where the cozy basement readings range from open-mike nights to an intercultural poetry series. Dinner upstairs is quite nice (lobster ravioli, roast breast of smoked duck), but any walking tour of New York poetry is also necessarily a drinking tour. Take your pick: Chumley’s or the White Horse Tavern. It’s a tough call—both have great selection of beers on tap. Chumley’s is an ex-speakeasy festooned with photos of literary patrons like Edna St. Vincent Millay; and at the White Horse, Dylan Thomas once drank eighteen whiskeys and died the next morning. Talk about not “going gentle.”

Cornelia Street Café, 29 Cornelia Street, 212-989-9319; corneliastreetcafe.com; admission varies
Chumley’s, 86 Bedford Street, 212-675-4449
White Horse Tavern, 567 Hudson Street, 212-989-3956
   
     
     
   
     
   

Now it’s time for some actual poetry: Zigzag east-ish, passing a host of landmarks: 137 Waverly Place, where Edgar Allan Poe once lived, now occupied by a branch of Douglas Elliman; the church at 55 Washington Square South, which hosted the avant-garde 50s-era Judson Poets Theater; and 653 Broadway, whose basement once housed Pfaff’s beer hall, where Whitman used to hold court with friends like Thomas Nast and William Dean Howells (the space is now a “piercing spa”). Eventually, you’ll hit St. Mark’s Poetry Project, which, back in the days of heroin and street crime, was home base for New York School poets like Frank O’Hara and John Ashbery (who returns once in a while to take part in the ongoing reading series). Head south, and you’ll notice Telephone Bar & Grill (149 Second Avenue; 212-529-5000), where “$1 comedy” on Thursday nights recalls—if you’ve had enough Bass—the staccato self-consciousness of the Beat poets who used to hang out here back when it was Le Metro café.

• St. Mark’s Poetry Project, Second Avenue at 131 E.10th Street, 212-674-0910; poetryproject.com; admission $8, $7 students and seniors, $5 members)
Telephone Bar & Grill, 149 Second Avenue, 212-529-5000

 

   
     
   
     
    For better or worse, New York’s most vibrant versification venues are the poetry slams. Mondays are for Bar 13, an otherwise generic, lava-lamped lounge that comes alive with a tattooed and funky slam crowd (sample line: “Crackhead robbed me—again”). On Wednesdays, the Reverend Jen continues her seven-year-long nonjudgmental Anti-Slam, at Collective Unconscious. Once the summer is over, the peppy, cleanly scrubbed Bowery Poetry Club & Café will resume its Thursday-night slams, where you may hear verses about allergies that are, if not necessarily poetic, at least emphatic. On Fridays, wander down to the grand-pappy of the slam scene, the Nuyorican Poets Café.

• Bar 13, 35 East 13th Street, 212-979-6677; bar13.com; cover varies
• Collective Unconscious, 279 Church St., 212-254-5277; weird.org
• Bowery Poetry Club & Café, 308 Bowery; 212-614-0505; bowerypoetry.com, $3
• Nuyorican Poets Café, 236 East 3rd Street,; 212-505-8183; nuyorican.org; $7
   
     
     
    When you’ve had enough of angelheaded hipsters, cap off the night by dragging yourself to 404 East 14th Street, where you can say a Kaddish for Allen Ginsberg, who lived in this six-story tenement until his death in 1997. Plus, if you’re starving (but not naked or hysterical), you can pop into the McDonald’s on the ground floor—rumor has it the Bacon Ranch Salads here will make you howl…